Author: Evan

November Summary

November Summary

Visit Cambodia: where anything’s possible. This, I quote, is what her profile said. Ok, sounds good Cambodia. I’ll call you, I told her. We’ll tee up a date, how’s November? It started in Phnom Penh, the capital. While tolerable, it’s hardly a destination. My highlights included surviving a spiked drink and the excitement of leaving. …

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A Lucid Dream in South East Cambodia

A Lucid Dream in South East Cambodia

Am I in a lucid dream? I mean, would I be asking that question if I wasn’t? Either I’ve been tripping around South East Cambodia for the past few weeks, or I’m passed out on a couch… It started in Sihanoukville. The place is a latrine for Chinese tourists. Dumplings go in, then dumplings come …

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Fingered by Which Bank?

Fingered by Which Bank?

It’s three AM. I’m sitting here, alone, at a bar, waiting for my bank to buy me a drink. Sound odd? Here, let me paint a picture… Fact: at a neighbourly barbecue, it’s more socially acceptable to be a registered sex offender than to work for a bank. At least peddos have to report their …

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I Survived Stung Treng

I Survived Stung Treng

The food in Cambodia is trying to kill you – from rancid meat to fly-blown chicken, from sewage-washed greens to mouldy bread. The grub here is ruthless. The term ‘health standard’ means crossing your fingers before every meal – and crossing your legs after it. Now, I’ve been to some pretty sketchy places. Places where …

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The Contradictions of Cambodia

The Contradictions of Cambodia

So far, I’m not sure what I think of Cambodia. Their national narrative is tragic, reverent, and promising all at once. Phnom Penh is one of the fastest growing cities in Asia. From a low base, the only way is up. It’s a city crowned by cranes, insistent fingers probing skyward – a picture of …

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Finding Common Ground with Chiang Mai

Finding Common Ground with Chiang Mai

I struggled to find common ground with Chiang Mai. People have always talked it up. It’s Valhalla in the jungle, they said. Full of far-out peaceniks with a currency of love. The waterfalls are rainbows, and the rainbows are, umm…double rainbows. Yeah, they’ve got double rainbows! It sounded fanciful. Now here’s the truth… First off, …

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October Summary

October Summary

October is a shit month back in Queensland. It’s a dead zone between the end of the rugby and the start of the cricket. The fishing’s poor and the surf drops off. My weekends would lack context. I’d saunter about in social purgatory, catatonic, moistened in a drool of lethargy. Time itself became viscous. But, …

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The Ethics of Underwear: a Journey in Central Thailand

The Ethics of Underwear: a Journey in Central Thailand

In Thailand, you’ll confront the big issues. But I’m not talking poverty, sex trafficking, or institutional corruption – I’m talking underwear. Yep. To wear, or not to wear: that is the question. Because, believe it or not, it’s illegal to be caught without it. Now, let me be clear – I’m a staunch anti-undite. I …

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Turn Down for Wat: a Quick Tour of Bangkok

Turn Down for Wat: a Quick Tour of Bangkok

In Bangkok, there’s three things you can’t escape: temples, markets, and aggressive lady boys. Cue the Sesame Street ditty: “one of these things is not like-the-others…” The music stops: now, can you guess the odd one out? I spent a few days in the capital and tried to find out. In Thai, the term ‘wat’ …

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Scalpers Can Suck a Chode

Scalpers Can Suck a Chode

Scalpers: they’re barely human. They add nothing. As a parasite, they suck their life from the misery of others. But, in Surat Thani, I took a stand. Short back story: I love train travel – it’s often a highlight of my trip. There’s something about the rhythmic rocking and the whine of metal. It soothes …

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