I Survived Stung Treng

I Survived Stung Treng

The food in Cambodia is trying to kill you – from rancid meat to fly-blown chicken, from sewage-washed greens to mouldy bread. The grub here is ruthless. The term ‘health standard’ means crossing your fingers before every meal – and crossing your legs after it. Now, I’ve been to some pretty sketchy places. Places where …

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Yeah, Nha. Nha Trang is Shit

Yeah, Nha. Nha Trang is Shit

What has flashing lights and smells like cabbage? Now, hold up, I know what you’re thinking. But no, sorry, it’s not a flying salad. Here’s a clue… This beachside town was set up for Marines – a slice of home where they could relax and unwind, or swim in the sea and let off grenades. …

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Don’t Visit KL

Don’t Visit KL

Visiting KL feels like travelling backwards on a train – mildly nauseating and you’re glad when it’s over. It doesn’t feel natural for humans. In KL the busses are on time, and the towers are tall. The food is cheap and the taxis are metered. They’ve got gardens, museums, markets, and malls – but something’s …

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Finding Common Ground with Chiang Mai

Finding Common Ground with Chiang Mai

I struggled to find common ground with Chiang Mai. People have always talked it up. It’s Valhalla in the jungle, they said. Full of far-out peaceniks with a currency of love. The waterfalls are rainbows, and the rainbows are, umm…double rainbows. Yeah, they’ve got double rainbows! It sounded fanciful. Now here’s the truth… First off, …

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Tinder While Travelling

Tinder While Travelling

It was the morning of my departure. T-minus 4hrs and counting. My mood was anxious, my mood was foreign. I strained for indifference. Ubering to the airport, the driver asked: “International eh, headed far?”, “Nah mate. Just Singapore”. Good boy, play it down, lest he mock your enthusiasm – so worldly are the men who …

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Back, Sack, and Travel Hacks

Back, Sack, and Travel Hacks

[Judgey John Lennon voice] And so this is Christmas, and what have you done? [Derisive Evan voice] Well, John, I haven’t written any so-called “songs”, but I’ve done a bit of travel. And here are some tips… MapsMe. My travel is divided into two distinct periods – the Dark ages before MapsMe, and the Enlightenment …

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The Ethics of Underwear: a Journey in Central Thailand

The Ethics of Underwear: a Journey in Central Thailand

In Thailand, you’ll confront the big issues. But I’m not talking poverty, sex trafficking, or institutional corruption – I’m talking underwear. Yep. To wear, or not to wear: that is the question. Because, believe it or not, it’s illegal to be caught without it. Now, let me be clear – I’m a staunch anti-undite. I …

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A Script: Three Towns in Central Vietnam

A Script: Three Towns in Central Vietnam

Rewind to March 8, 1965. The opening scene. Picture a lazy day Da Nang. A fisherman stands on the beach. He checks the wind, scratches his ass, then sniffs his finger. Mmm…fishy. The camera pans from shore to sea. There’s soldiers. That’s odd. Quickly, arrange all the dancing girls and hand-shaking dignitaries. And, with that, …

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South Vietnam: So this is Socialism?

South Vietnam: So this is Socialism?

Question: What’s the most popular name in Vietnam? Answer: It’s Nguyen – a name shared by the former president, current prime minister, Vietcong leaders, and practically everyone else you meet. But, in this socialist country, you can’t tell your Phuong Nguyens from your Ayn Rands anymore. I crossed into ‘Nam via Phu Quoc – a …

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A Lucid Dream in South East Cambodia

A Lucid Dream in South East Cambodia

Am I in a lucid dream? I mean, would I be asking that question if I wasn’t? Either I’ve been tripping around South East Cambodia for the past few weeks, or I’m passed out on a couch… It started in Sihanoukville. The place is a latrine for Chinese tourists. Dumplings go in, then dumplings come …

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